Trelograms #6 — What Does It Mean to Be Alive?

My host Sasha invited me to go fishing — was that excitement or discomfort?

One way or another, i was certainly curious.

From what i understood, they leave traps permanently set up along the canal, and go every evening check if anything got caught in them — there was one this time, whom i found to be surprisingly settled, not sure if because already tired from trying to escape from the net the whole day, or resignation to its fate.

It was not quite my first time ever fishing, but it was the first time i remember paying attention to what was happening. It was also the first time i ate an animal i watched being killed. In particular, i had never seen a fish being cleaned before — the reflexes were still there several minutes after that — so, when did it die? — was it when its brain was removed? — or was it when the cat ate it? — what is ‘it,’ anyways? — has it ever been alive — what does any of that even mean?

Sasha doesn’t eat fish.

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Featured photo: fishing with Sasha ( Ukraine, May ’17 )


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Trelograms’ is a wordplay between ‘telegram’ and ‘trélos’ (Greek for ‘mad’)

Trelograms: inspiration; cycle touring; Ukraine

Trelograms #5 — Leaving Doesn’t Get Easier

This picture shows Tania, Natasha, and Valia from Mahazyn Kashtan in Kiliya, Ukraine. The town comes up along the stretch of the Danube River between Izmail and Odessa — a popular week-long cycle touring route during Spring/Summer.

Mahazyn Kashtan was where one of my shortest and most intense cycle touring encounters to date took place. I walked in just to get some bread but, as it’s nearly always the case, that’s never the whole story — they seemed especially glad to see me, perhaps because i came from so far (Brazil) — i believe that can be seen in their smiles on the photo.

Despite their contagious joy, this encounter was also a tough reminder that we’re constantly departing on a cycle tour — perhaps in life in general?

This was one of the countless occasions in which i broke into tears upon leaving them behind — am i ever going to see them again!?

This will likely not quite apply to the vast majority of my readers — but on the off chance that you’re doing the Izmail–Odessa ride, please swing by Mahazyn Kashtan (it’s somewhere around here) on your way through Kiliya — do you food shopping there, and tell the ladies that Mika, cycle touring guy from Brazil, says a warm hi 😉

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Featured photo: Tania, Natasha, and Valia (May ’17)


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Trelograms’ is a wordplay between ‘telegram’ and ‘trélos’ (Greek for ‘mad’)

Trelograms: inspiration; cycle touring; Ukraine

Trelograms #4 — What Is Home?

The other night, a creepy incident at home: someone knocking at our door, close to midnight, desperately asking us to please let them in  — then returning half an hour later and insisting on the same thing. We couldn’t establish who they were, whom or what they were looking for, or why they picked our door and seemingly none of our neighbors’.

My girlfriend and i felt very unsafe  —  trapped, really: “are they still outside?”   — “it seems like it, or at least i didn’t hear their footsteps going downstairs”  —  “how did they get inside the building?”

The irony…

My girlfriend has hitchhiked and i’ve ridden my bicycle solo throughout Eastern Europe for months on end, and the one thing we could agree upon was, we never felt like that on the road — never! In fact, when i’m in the countryside, i actually feel safer if the locals know where i am camping.

Are we confused?

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Featured photo: our apartment door in Lviv ( Fall ’17 )


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Trelograms’ is a wordplay between ‘telegram’ and ‘trélos’ (Greek for ‘mad’)

Trelograms: inspiration; cycle touring, hitchhiking; worldwide

Trelograms #3 — The Social Individual

The ‘bench outside’ is still a rather prevalent feature in Eastern European countryside. From old people sitting alone attentively observing what’s happening on the street, to groups of neighbors having a chat, to young couples dating, you’ll have plenty of people to wave at and exchange smiles with on your way cycle touring there.

It took me a while to realize that i actually grew up myself in a house with such a bench outside  —  and also a lovely old lady who spent much of her time chatting with all the other lovely old ladies in the neighborhood.

Over time i saw the gates around the block (including ours) grow taller and advance into public land, sometimes becoming walls — probably more to protect the thugs from us than us from them? Whether this change was for better or worse, something was definitely lost in the process.

What about you? What has been your experience? Please comment below — i’d love to hear your thoughts 🙂

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Featured photo: lovely ladies chatting by the “bench outside“ in Romanian countryside ( April ‘17 )


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Trelograms’ is a wordplay between ‘telegram’ and ‘trélos’ (Greek for ‘mad’)

Trelograms: inspiration; cycle touring; Romania

Trelograms #2 — Connected

What do you make out of this image? — people sitting next to each other seemingly lost in the world through their gadgets is a common sight these days, isn’t it?

Today i want to invite you to look beyond what the image might suggest and meet Daichi and Ryo Uchiyama, the people in it — when i approached them at a coffee shop in L’viv, Ukraine, introduced myself, and asked if i could chat with them for a little bit, they replied with excited interest, promptly closing the laptop and putting away the phone.

This friendly Japanese couple got married two years ago, and have been traveling together around the world on what they told me is their honeymoon ever since — 24 countries, and counting! In hindsight, i’m not surprised it was so easy to connect with them.

They take much more colorful pictures than me, some of which you can see in their Instagram  @tabiwalife — check it out!

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Featured photo: Daichi and Ryo Uchiyama chilling at the Kredens Café in Lviv, Ukraine ( Fall ’17 )


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Trelograms’ is a wordplay between ‘telegram’ and ‘trélos’ (Greek for ‘mad’)